Becoming real herders

Horse riding

Mongolia never fails to surprise me. Today, the plan was for us to ride horses at this beautiful and wild place and so we did..but what surprise me the most is although the owner knows that we have never rode horses before, they guide and let us ride the horses on our own. For the girls, at first each horses is accompanied by either Mr Erbolat (I call him Mel Gibson) or Nolan but as for me, I rode on my own from the start. It was quite easy actually ie pull the head up to stop the horse from moving, left to turn left and right to turn right..of course kick the horse at the side with both legs if you want it to run or move faster...the girls later rode by themselves as well as they seems comfortable with it as well..

 Mr Erbolat (Mel Gibson), the owner of the home we stayed for 3 nights..

 The Mask of Zorro in the making

 Us three together with Nurlan

 

Ride to work

We rode along the beautiful landscape in temperature of about -10 (later at noon increased to about -2) for about 3 hours. Along the way we can see many herds moving from the summer place to the owner's winter place and after seeing that we can handle the horses comfortably, they decided why not let us experience something more...just watch the video and understand what i meant..

Yes yes yes..we really experience the nomadic life 😀 ..we became one of the herders (gembala)..we helped one Kazakh nomad to control and move their herds containing cows, goats and sheeps...funnily he trusted us and ran off or shall i say hop off to a house nearby for a quick bowl of tea (yeah they drink tea in bowl and using salt and one thing i also observe here is that they are very welcoming..they even entertain stranger who drops by their  house with tea, bread, cheese and cream). We continued migrating with the herds for at least half and hour before we leave the herds as we need to ride back to our homestay...along the way we caught up with another herds and we then helped to control the herd and move together with it..

 Awesome work site

 Leaked scene from Ice Age 7

 

Can you see my teeth 😬😀

Successful herders 👏👏..and we paid to work instead of getting paid 😅

In short, I never dream of this and never thought of doing this..I have seen this in cowboy drama scenes or natgeo and i can't believe that this can now be ticked off from my life to do list (as if I have one 😅).

We ended the day with a good bonding session ie playing cards..and the best part the Mr Erbolat and his wife, our guide Nurlan, the awesome cook Babalat and 3 of us played together until late at night..it was indeed a perfect day..

 

 Learning mathematics together 😀

Earlier - Russian Van, Ger and ...

Next - New found family

The Russian Van, Ger and..

The Russian Van

After 2 nights staying at the winter house of Mr Ekhee, we say final goodbye to them and the Altai Mountains. The plan is to travel 128 kilometres southwest to Borburus. Whilst it should meant a maximum of one hour drive on Malaysian road (I bet for most its 45 minutes drive), here it meant at least 3 hours on the road and we will be travelling in the Russian van.

The Russian van is also know as the 'Buhanka', which means a unit of bread. Produced in Russia since 1965, this 4x4 van is very popular as an expedition van. In Mongolia itself, when driving through the vast empty land you might bump into one or two such van daily, as its parts are easily available and many mechanics/drivers are very much familiar with it. 

We have seen this van for 2 days but never rode in it and from today onwards, this would be our main mode of transportation. My friend earliern advised me to bring a soft pillow for my backside as she said it would be a bumpy journey daily, in the van. I was expecting the worst but to my surprise, we felt comfortable in the van. It was really spacious and can fit up to 8 passengers (including driver) easily, albeit some would have to seat facing the rear; something not good if you tend to get headache easily. At the rear side, our experience driver Uncle Musa easily packed and fit in all ther gears, including the huge cooking gas cylinder, our backpacks, mattresses, sleeping bag, stoves, water, rations and ahhh you name it. Its like a moving house by itself and guess what, who knows somehow someday you would see one in Malaysia 😁..when you do, try and guess whose is it 😝

 Our ride for the next 6 days

 The place we called home for 2 nights

 Final word for a loyal guardian

 Group photo with Mr Ekhee and his wife

 Trust me, it is indeed comfortable

 Our reliable driver, Uncle Musa. At his age of 65, I am amazed with his strength and offroad driving skills

 Look at the view

 Mesmerising

We commenced our journey as planned, at 1000am, leaving behind the snowy mountains, towards Borburus, where we plan to stay there for 2 nights. The view along the way was just mesmerising as you can see migrating herds, vast lands blanketed by snow, cowboys, freezing river and to cap it old at times along the way you can see cute red cheek kids waving at you (and for the ladies well built tall, not dark and handsome men smiling at them as well). 

 Berhenti bagi kids coklat

 Chubby and cute

Ger

I told Nurlan (our guide), if we pass by a Ger please do stop by as we wanted to see the interior of it. As written earlier, we were supposed to stay in Ger for 2 nights but as the snowfalls came earlier then expected, we have to opt for plan B instead. We managed to find one, and Mr Sarai, the owner of the Ger, kindly let us in. True to the spirit of the local Mongolian Kazakhs, though we were uninvited guess, the lady of the house (or shall i say the lady of the ger), quickly boil some hot tea, prepare some cheese, bread etc and served us well. I am very much impressed with this and days later, I also found out that the herders, when feeling cold or tired, will just drop by any of the nomadics house and they will be treated the same as we did.

By looking at the interior of a Ger, you would know whether it is a Mongolian Ger. A Mongolian Ger would be simple and the roof trusses are all straight but a Kazakh Ger will be well decorated and its roof trusses will be bent inwards at the part where the roof joints with the walls (see video).

 

Customary foods  that the Kazakhs will serve their guests 

 

Me and Mr Sarai. I am turning into Mongolian Kazakh myself 😝

Run up the hill

 

Along the way, we reached a point where the van needed to do a steep climb up a hill and as it was icy road we were asked to step out and hike up instead.

The place itself offers jaw-dropping landscape and we took time taking obligatory photos before commencing our unplanned forced hike 😅. 

Pzah and myself was so focus on taking nice shots until we realised that Noli and Balapan had hiked far from us. I then told Pzah lets run to them; to beat the cold and be nearer to them. It was an error of judgement as we soon found out that with the thin oxygen level (this place is of high altitude), breathing was difficult and Pzah later fell sick and vommitted 😅. 

Breathtaking isn't it? 

 Long way hike up

Cheeky girl

The journey continues and after stopping to relief ourselves few times, the Russian van suddenly stopped in front of a winter house. Nurlan went down, had a quick chat with somebody inside, came out and we drove away. When driving away, we saw a cheeky cute girl smiling and waving at us. The ladies got excited and smiled back and all havocly chatted about that girl and felt like wanted to ask Uncle Musa to stop as we wanted to take some photos with her. We thought somehow Uncle Musa is an expert at telephaty as he did stopped the vehicle, Pzah then ran down and hugged the girl and we were busy taking photos with her and his brother, and later her grandma. 

We soon found out that Uncle Musa does not have that sixth sense but actually we have arrived at today's intended destination...and staying with this girl's family indeed 😂😂😅👍

 Macam dah lama kenal

How can you not adore them? 

Outside view from the home we will stay tonight

 

 See dah macam balik kampung je

 Sampai je Pzah terus pengsan..camnerlah nak jadi menantu..

Earlier - Our first experience as Herders

Next - Becoming real herders

Our first experience as Herders

We arrived at Ekhee's house at about 1:30pm and after lunch Bek departed back to Olgii and we remained for the night. 

In the evening, the lady owner asked if we can help collect and bring home baby yaks and I excitedly answered yes without realising that the baby yaks were wondering at the mountain itself. The ladies decided to follow as well and as we stepped out from the house, the view was mesmerising as we can see herds of goats, yaks and camels with the background of snowcapped mountains shined by the setting sun. We forgot about our duty and spent time taking photos again and again. Nolan had to warn us that the baby yaks are going further up the mountains and we need to be fast.

 Mesmering backdrop of the place we stayed for 2 nights..and the baby yaks are somewhere there 😅

We managed to catch up with the baby yaks and I got my first experience to be a herder..

Apparently the yaks can understand malay 😝

We then watched the herds home and then continued the unfinished business of playing snow..

PPart time traffic control 

The area being swamped by animals. Muat ke?

 Playing snow with the rising moon as the backdrop

Earlier - Trekking the Altai Mountains

Next - The Russian Van

Trekking the Altai Mountains

Rock art

Today we were supposed to drive to the basecamp of Malchin and sleep overnight before trekking and summitting Malchin Peak. However, due to the heavy snowfalls, our camels and horses were unable to bring us there hence we have to resort to plan B. We were driven to Khai Ayrag instead and our first activity was to look at the rock art. It was drawn during the period of 600 before masihi and the rock was drawn using bronze hence they call it the bronze age (it was before iron age). 

 Deer drawing using bronze found on one of the rock at this area

 Pantang jumpa snow

Khai Ayrag

We then continued with what we planned to do ie trek Khai Ayrag. 

Although it was in the planned itinerary that we would summit a snow capped mountain, we failed to prepare our clothing/attire adequately. We should have brought over thicker jackets and high cut boots and better still gaiters as well. Having said that, we still proceeded to trek and climbed Khar Ahreg. The original plan was for us to ride horse or camel to the base and then start climbing but as the condition was bad, we rode the 4wd instead. 

We were accompanied by Mr Ekhee and Bek and it was in a bad condition i.e. it was still snowing and at times we the snow was as thick as our knee and in blistering winds. I am amazed and also proud to see how the ladies were strong and kept going on, eventhough condition was less then desirable. I guess Pzah was trying to impress Bek 😜 whilst Noli was crazy as usual hence such conditions doesn't bother her. The temperature at that time was circa -25C.

Horrendous condition

 Trying to raise Perak flag but it was so difficult due to the blistering condition

 Another valuable life experience gained

Fun is always the name

of the game

 Us with our trekking guide, Mr Ekhee

Total trekking time was about 3 hours and when we arrived at our vehicle, all parts were frozen..the engine can't be started  and we can't even push the car as the brakes etc were also frozen. We were stranded in the middle of nowhere and in minus degrees temperatures. 

Everyone played their part and tried to help where can. When the engine finally can be started, 3 wheels spin but the left rear was still stucked. The car spun and as its location is near a cliff, everyone got scared as were worried it will fall into the ravine below. It was later discovered that the handbrake is stucked and whilst Ekhee and Bek tried to release it, I have to grab the shovel and clear the thick snow to help create a proper path for the 4wd. I must admit I do not have much energy and it was too cold for me to do so but my inner strength kept me going..we finally can move on after being stuck for about half an hour in such a challenging but memorable experience.

 Tikus membaiki labu

Earlier - From Malaysia with snow

Next - Our first experience as herders

From Malaysia with snow

First snowfall experience

We then continue our journey to the Altai mountains. In our original plan, we were supposed to camp in a Ger at Ranger's station but when we arrive at Shiveet Khairkhan, heavy snow starts falling and whilst our jeep can proceed to the destination, the Russian van can't hence we have to abort and stayed at Nomadic winter house instead. 

 Our Russian van got stucked in the thick snow

 Our 4wd for the first 2 days

Before the day of our arrival, weather was as normal as each year during this period but as some locals made jokes about it later, we Malaysians brought the snow with us. 

It snowed heavily overnight and it also caught the local nomads by surprise. Infact we got to know later that one nomadic family has to abandon their truck and move to the winter house using smaller jeep..they were literally unprepared.  All is not bad and infact the two ladies that came along are Perakians (I am too 😄) and were wishing to experience snowfall for the first time...they got their wish and trust me, they really behave like 'perak'...this was their reaction..

The place we stayed at is owned by Mr Ekhee; a nomadic of Tuvan Tribe (one of mongolian tribe and mostly they are Buddhist). It was an unplanned stay but as we witnessed and experience later, Nomads are very friendly and welcoming. 

Nomads move in accordance to season. Basically, the main reason they live nomadly is more because of their herds; yaks, cattles, sheeps, camels, goats etc. Mongolia is a very big country with vast empty lands and during summer, they migrate to places with plenty of quality grasses, at times more than 100 kilometres away. This enabled their herds to roam and eat freely and they believe that is why the quality of meats and dairy products are of a high quality. During this period, they stay in Ger (photo of it in Day 2 notes). They call this their summer place and although they do not put claim to any land, each nomads kind of know which area belong to who.

During winter, it is the time when most of the animals especially goats gave birth hence a more permanent shelter is required. In mid to late October, when winter is nearing (winter normally starts from November to March), they will start migrate back to the winter place. Migration can take 2 or 3 days depending on distance and along the way, they might stop and overnight at places called Autumn house. They later continue their journey to their own winter house.

In Mongolia (at the outskirt but not in town), you can build winter house anywhere you want but you do not own the land. The land is owned by the Government. In short, Nomads basically lives in 3 types of houses;

• Winter house, which is more permanent and well decorated
• Autumn house; wooden but simple. Normally they stay here for about a month as a transit before migrating again to the winter house
• Ger; summer time

Their main source of income is as herders. They breed animal and as tourism is growing, it has become their other source of income. They offer transportation services like using camels, yak, horses etc and also made their house as homestays ie tourists lives with them and experience local life, as what we do). 

The place is nice as we get to experience actual lifestyle of the locals. The only challenging part is as it was snowing, it was really cold (outside temperature during our stay was in the circa of -15 to -20 degrees celcius). The toilet itself is far from the house and i counted as 122 steps are required from house the to toilet. For me, its easier as I can just do small business anywhere in the snow but for the ladies, they have literally no choice 😉

 The locals blamed us for bringing snow much earlier then norm 👻☃️

 

Have you ever conducted your 'banking' in snow, a mere 122 steps away from the doorsteps? 

 

The interior of the winter house we stayed in for 2 nights

 

Minus 25C outside..and we only have heater from the fireplace up to about 11pm ❄️

 The yaks are not bothered by the snow

 Each herders will own at least 1 dog which helps to look after the herds during migration and also at night. In this case, this dog helps ensure Yaks do not attempt to stray away from the house at night. What's also amazing is the dog can immediately identifies that you are a guest and do not bark or attempt to scare you away

Earlier - Eagle Hunter

Next - Trekking Altai Mountains

Eagle hunter

Eagle Hunter

Our first stop was at an Eagle Hunter home ie Mr Manaa's house. It was just a quick stop for lunch (we will be back to the house Day 7 for some activities with the eagle hunter). 

Whilst waiting for lunch, Mr Manaa's son brought out the eagle they uses for hunting and of course the tourist us took the chance to slip into the traditional eagle hunter costume and took some snaps with the eagle (if repeated rounds of photos and videos qualifies for snaps 😝)..

Before that, I saw a motorcycle and the biker in me kept pushing for a ride. The owner kindly lent me his bike and I rode around the open landscape for a while and now I can claim that I have ridden a motorbike in Mongolia 😁.

We were called in for lunch and wallah, this is our first taste of Beshbarmak. Beshbarmak is a traditional Kazakh meal which means five fingers, made from boiled sheep (boiled for at least 3/4 hours), normally served when they have special guests coming (in this case its us 😀). As its name, its served in a big 'plate' (something like dulang in Malay) and all of us gather around to eat it with barehands. For us Malay, we can do so with no problem. Initially I saw some white pieces in the dish which I thought was the sheep skin and deep down I prayed that they don't pick it and ask me to eat it..I seated silently, picking the meats only and avoiding the white piece until 'Apam' (grandma in Kazakh) told us that it is homemade pasta. I immediately grab it and eat it and ahhhh it tasted delicious. What an introduction to Kazakh culture 👍

 My next profession? 

 Pzah taking a ride..habis pancit tayar 

 Our first introduction to the local bank 😅

 I can claim that I have rode a bike in Mongolia 😁

 Mr Manaa; retired eagle hunter..maybe I will be next?

 The one next to me was a Kazakh wrestler

Beshbarmak (5 fingers)

Earlier: Turbulence flight

Next: First encounter with snow