Sunday, 23 October 2016

From Malaysia with snow

First snowfall experience


We then continue our journey to the Altai mountains. In our original plan, we were supposed to camp in a Ger at Ranger's station but when we arrive at Shiveet Khairkhan, heavy snow starts falling and whilst our jeep can proceed to the destination, the Russian van can't hence we have to abort and stayed at Nomadic winter house instead. 


 Our Russian van got stucked in the thick snow


 Our 4wd for the first 2 days


Before the day of our arrival, weather was as normal as each year during this period but as some locals made jokes about it later, we Malaysians brought the snow with us. 


It snowed heavily overnight and it also caught the local nomads by surprise. Infact we got to know later that one nomadic family has to abandon their truck and move to the winter house using smaller jeep..they were literally unprepared.  All is not bad and infact the two ladies that came along are Perakians (I am too 😄) and were wishing to experience snowfall for the first time...they got their wish and trust me, they really behave like 'perak'...this was their reaction..




The place we stayed at is owned by Mr Ekhee; a nomadic of Tuvan Tribe (one of mongolian tribe and mostly they are Buddhist). It was an unplanned stay but as we witnessed and experience later, Nomads are very friendly and welcoming. 


Nomads move in accordance to season. Basically, the main reason they live nomadly is more because of their herds; yaks, cattles, sheeps, camels, goats etc. Mongolia is a very big country with vast empty lands and during summer, they migrate to places with plenty of quality grasses, at times more than 100 kilometres away. This enabled their herds to roam and eat freely and they believe that is why the quality of meats and dairy products are of a high quality. During this period, they stay in Ger (photo of it in Day 2 notes). They call this their summer place and although they do not put claim to any land, each nomads kind of know which area belong to who.


During winter, it is the time when most of the animals especially goats gave birth hence a more permanent shelter is required. In mid to late October, when winter is nearing (winter normally starts from November to March), they will start migrate back to the winter place. Migration can take 2 or 3 days depending on distance and along the way, they might stop and overnight at places called Autumn house. They later continue their journey to their own winter house.


In Mongolia (at the outskirt but not in town), you can build winter house anywhere you want but you do not own the land. The land is owned by the Government. In short, Nomads basically lives in 3 types of houses;


  • Winter house, which is more permanent and well decorated
  • Autumn house; wooden but simple. Normally they stay here for about a month as a transit before migrating again to the winter house
  • Ger; summer time


Their main source of income is as herders. They breed animal and as tourism is growing, it has become their other source of income. They offer transportation services like using camels, yak, horses etc and also made their house as homestays ie tourists lives with them and experience local life, as what we do). 


The place is nice as we get to experience actual lifestyle of the locals. The only challenging part is as it was snowing, it was really cold (outside temperature during our stay was in the circa of -15 to -20 degrees celcius). The toilet itself is far from the house and i counted as 122 steps are required from house the to toilet. For me, its easier as I can just do small business anywhere in the snow but for the ladies, they have literally no choice 😉


 The locals blamed us for bringing snow much earlier then norm 👻☃️


 

Have you ever conducted your 'banking' in snow, a mere 122 steps away from the doorsteps? 


 

The interior of the winter house we stayed in for 2 nights


 

Minus 25C outside..and we only have heater from the fireplace up to about 11pm ❄️


 The yaks are not bothered by the snow



 Each herders will own at least 1 dog which helps to look after the herds during migration and also at night. In this case, this dog helps ensure Yaks do not attempt to stray away from the house at night. What's also amazing is the dog can immediately identifies that you are a guest and do not bark or attempt to scare you away



Earlier - Eagle Hunter

Next - Trekking Altai Mountains

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