Trekking the Altai Mountains

Rock art

Today we were supposed to drive to the basecamp of Malchin and sleep overnight before trekking and summitting Malchin Peak. However, due to the heavy snowfalls, our camels and horses were unable to bring us there hence we have to resort to plan B. We were driven to Khai Ayrag instead and our first activity was to look at the rock art. It was drawn during the period of 600 before masihi and the rock was drawn using bronze hence they call it the bronze age (it was before iron age). 

 Deer drawing using bronze found on one of the rock at this area

 Pantang jumpa snow

Khai Ayrag

We then continued with what we planned to do ie trek Khai Ayrag. 

Although it was in the planned itinerary that we would summit a snow capped mountain, we failed to prepare our clothing/attire adequately. We should have brought over thicker jackets and high cut boots and better still gaiters as well. Having said that, we still proceeded to trek and climbed Khar Ahreg. The original plan was for us to ride horse or camel to the base and then start climbing but as the condition was bad, we rode the 4wd instead. 

We were accompanied by Mr Ekhee and Bek and it was in a bad condition i.e. it was still snowing and at times we the snow was as thick as our knee and in blistering winds. I am amazed and also proud to see how the ladies were strong and kept going on, eventhough condition was less then desirable. I guess Pzah was trying to impress Bek 😜 whilst Noli was crazy as usual hence such conditions doesn't bother her. The temperature at that time was circa -25C.

Horrendous condition

 Trying to raise Perak flag but it was so difficult due to the blistering condition

 Another valuable life experience gained

Fun is always the name

of the game

 Us with our trekking guide, Mr Ekhee

Total trekking time was about 3 hours and when we arrived at our vehicle, all parts were frozen..the engine can't be started  and we can't even push the car as the brakes etc were also frozen. We were stranded in the middle of nowhere and in minus degrees temperatures. 

Everyone played their part and tried to help where can. When the engine finally can be started, 3 wheels spin but the left rear was still stucked. The car spun and as its location is near a cliff, everyone got scared as were worried it will fall into the ravine below. It was later discovered that the handbrake is stucked and whilst Ekhee and Bek tried to release it, I have to grab the shovel and clear the thick snow to help create a proper path for the 4wd. I must admit I do not have much energy and it was too cold for me to do so but my inner strength kept me going..we finally can move on after being stuck for about half an hour in such a challenging but memorable experience.

 Tikus membaiki labu

Earlier - From Malaysia with snow

Next - Our first experience as herders

From Malaysia with snow

First snowfall experience

We then continue our journey to the Altai mountains. In our original plan, we were supposed to camp in a Ger at Ranger's station but when we arrive at Shiveet Khairkhan, heavy snow starts falling and whilst our jeep can proceed to the destination, the Russian van can't hence we have to abort and stayed at Nomadic winter house instead. 

 Our Russian van got stucked in the thick snow

 Our 4wd for the first 2 days

Before the day of our arrival, weather was as normal as each year during this period but as some locals made jokes about it later, we Malaysians brought the snow with us. 

It snowed heavily overnight and it also caught the local nomads by surprise. Infact we got to know later that one nomadic family has to abandon their truck and move to the winter house using smaller jeep..they were literally unprepared.  All is not bad and infact the two ladies that came along are Perakians (I am too 😄) and were wishing to experience snowfall for the first time...they got their wish and trust me, they really behave like 'perak'...this was their reaction..

The place we stayed at is owned by Mr Ekhee; a nomadic of Tuvan Tribe (one of mongolian tribe and mostly they are Buddhist). It was an unplanned stay but as we witnessed and experience later, Nomads are very friendly and welcoming. 

Nomads move in accordance to season. Basically, the main reason they live nomadly is more because of their herds; yaks, cattles, sheeps, camels, goats etc. Mongolia is a very big country with vast empty lands and during summer, they migrate to places with plenty of quality grasses, at times more than 100 kilometres away. This enabled their herds to roam and eat freely and they believe that is why the quality of meats and dairy products are of a high quality. During this period, they stay in Ger (photo of it in Day 2 notes). They call this their summer place and although they do not put claim to any land, each nomads kind of know which area belong to who.

During winter, it is the time when most of the animals especially goats gave birth hence a more permanent shelter is required. In mid to late October, when winter is nearing (winter normally starts from November to March), they will start migrate back to the winter place. Migration can take 2 or 3 days depending on distance and along the way, they might stop and overnight at places called Autumn house. They later continue their journey to their own winter house.

In Mongolia (at the outskirt but not in town), you can build winter house anywhere you want but you do not own the land. The land is owned by the Government. In short, Nomads basically lives in 3 types of houses;

• Winter house, which is more permanent and well decorated
• Autumn house; wooden but simple. Normally they stay here for about a month as a transit before migrating again to the winter house
• Ger; summer time

Their main source of income is as herders. They breed animal and as tourism is growing, it has become their other source of income. They offer transportation services like using camels, yak, horses etc and also made their house as homestays ie tourists lives with them and experience local life, as what we do). 

The place is nice as we get to experience actual lifestyle of the locals. The only challenging part is as it was snowing, it was really cold (outside temperature during our stay was in the circa of -15 to -20 degrees celcius). The toilet itself is far from the house and i counted as 122 steps are required from house the to toilet. For me, its easier as I can just do small business anywhere in the snow but for the ladies, they have literally no choice 😉

 The locals blamed us for bringing snow much earlier then norm 👻☃️

 

Have you ever conducted your 'banking' in snow, a mere 122 steps away from the doorsteps? 

 

The interior of the winter house we stayed in for 2 nights

 

Minus 25C outside..and we only have heater from the fireplace up to about 11pm ❄️

 The yaks are not bothered by the snow

 Each herders will own at least 1 dog which helps to look after the herds during migration and also at night. In this case, this dog helps ensure Yaks do not attempt to stray away from the house at night. What's also amazing is the dog can immediately identifies that you are a guest and do not bark or attempt to scare you away

Earlier - Eagle Hunter

Next - Trekking Altai Mountains

Eagle hunter

Eagle Hunter

Our first stop was at an Eagle Hunter home ie Mr Manaa's house. It was just a quick stop for lunch (we will be back to the house Day 7 for some activities with the eagle hunter). 

Whilst waiting for lunch, Mr Manaa's son brought out the eagle they uses for hunting and of course the tourist us took the chance to slip into the traditional eagle hunter costume and took some snaps with the eagle (if repeated rounds of photos and videos qualifies for snaps 😝)..

Before that, I saw a motorcycle and the biker in me kept pushing for a ride. The owner kindly lent me his bike and I rode around the open landscape for a while and now I can claim that I have ridden a motorbike in Mongolia 😁.

We were called in for lunch and wallah, this is our first taste of Beshbarmak. Beshbarmak is a traditional Kazakh meal which means five fingers, made from boiled sheep (boiled for at least 3/4 hours), normally served when they have special guests coming (in this case its us 😀). As its name, its served in a big 'plate' (something like dulang in Malay) and all of us gather around to eat it with barehands. For us Malay, we can do so with no problem. Initially I saw some white pieces in the dish which I thought was the sheep skin and deep down I prayed that they don't pick it and ask me to eat it..I seated silently, picking the meats only and avoiding the white piece until 'Apam' (grandma in Kazakh) told us that it is homemade pasta. I immediately grab it and eat it and ahhhh it tasted delicious. What an introduction to Kazakh culture 👍

 My next profession? 

 Pzah taking a ride..habis pancit tayar 

 Our first introduction to the local bank 😅

 I can claim that I have rode a bike in Mongolia 😁

 Mr Manaa; retired eagle hunter..maybe I will be next?

 The one next to me was a Kazakh wrestler

Beshbarmak (5 fingers)

Earlier: Turbulence flight

Next: First encounter with snow

Our first intro to West Mongolia

Turbulence flight

The real journey begins when we took flight from UB to Olgii, western part of Mongolia. We were onboard Hunnu Air, in a Fokker, for a 3 hours journey from the eastern side of Mongolia to the western side, ie closer to Russia, Kazakhstan and China border. 

The view of Mongolia landscape from up and above was just mesmerising, with the interchanging landscape makes you wonder where have you been all this while and how lucky I am to finally witness it. It makes you dream but was then interrupted by heavy turbulence when we were nearing Ulgii. You can feel the aircraft drops hard, blown to left and right like a kite being flown during strong wind. One of my 2 friends ie Noli kept saying I don't like this, squeezing hard whatever is near her (in this case Pzah), sometimes laughing like a crazy women and sometimes closing her eyes shut..perhaps some tears doesn shed from her eyes.....Pzah was seating quietly akin in yoga position pretending all is well but later confessed that she was just looking outside and praying hard that this is not the end of her life. As for me..I was just laughing hard at both, especially Noli...(for me i just let it be..whatever happens, happen..it is beyond my control hence why not just enjoy the moment)...

Anyway, we landed safely (otherwise this blog won't exist 😂😅) and I can see the relieved faces of all the passengers around me (there is only 9 of us anyway as it was an empty flight).

It is a small airport in the middle of nowhere but with mesmerising view..we kept taking videos and photos at the taxiway until security has to call us in...we did not realise that passengers going the opposite direction are waiting for us to clear so that they can board the plane 😅. I am sure some of them would be cursing us 😝😆..

4am at Ulanbataar airport..will we be in the same cheerful mode at the end of the journey?

 The view from the flight

 

Different landscape from the earlier snowy areas

The excited me at Ulgii airport

 

Happy and relieved faces

 

Failed trademark jump 😝

We was greeted by Bek (JomOutdoor local partner) at the airport. He is a local Kazakh but educated in a Uni in Turkey and use to work in local based International mining company, which explains his fluent American slang English (infact he speaks 6 different languages). Like me, he quit his senior role to pursue what he loves most ie tourism and farming..unlike me though, his  tourism business is doing well 👏👍

Bek brought us around Ulgii town (whilst waiting for a local restaurant to open). It is a very small town with old soviet buildings and newer buildings mixed..they were part of soviet (though they also say they wasn't)...

In Ulgii, about 94% of the population is Kazakh people with Islam as the main religion. Unfortunately during the previous communist era, all Islamic clerics were captured and killed and it resulted in many being afraid to practice the religion hence most of them are Muslim by birth but do not practice such. However, for the past years or so many Islamic clerics, especially from Turkey are here to help re-educate them about the religion.

 

One of the few local mosque in Bayan Ulgii town centre

One funny thing that we notice in Mongolia is they have about 50/50 vehicles with steering wheel either on the left or on the right..but they drive on the right lane..its also weird and sometimes can be hazardous as we look at the wrong side when were trying to cross the road 😅

Our chance of wifi came in Bek's car and the local restaurant and after such we must be prepared to be out from the virtual world for at least a week..something difficult for this generation where everywhere we goes our 'auntie' do follows us...it is a joke Noli made ie 'anti social' coz we can see nowadays even if everyone meets each other for a meal, they do seat at the same table but each will be staring at the face of their phone.

Bek knows the owner hence has made special arrangement for it to be opened earlier so that we can have breakfast and continue our long journey ahead. It was a tasty Turkish breakfast with main component being egg, cheese, home made butter etc. 

Here most of the delicacies contains mainly dairy products, which is understandable as locals here are not good at farming but mostly are herders...and we later found out that you may not even see chicken as firstly its difficult to breed chicken as they are nomadics and move around based on season. Secondly, they do not like the taste of it (haha we also found out why..as they rarely see chicken, when they do have chicken meat, they just boil and eat hence its like tasteless...they don't know how to cook it..maybe next time we will bring KFC flour or maybe I will cook chicken curry for them).

 

Me and Bek..guess who is older 😉

 

The ladies with their auntie named Social

We commence our journey to Altai mountains using 2 vehicles, Bek's 4wd and a Russian van..its just weird as even at this early stage we felt right at home and so comfortable. Its like we have been in a journey for weeks and almost at the end of the road trip..at this stage we have seen and felt many new experiences, new food, new landscape...ahhh its just so perfect..watch this clip if you do not believe me..

The drive was on gravel roads and at one point i was given the chance to drive. It was weird and also a nerve wracking experience as i have to drive using vehicle with left steering wheel, on gravel roads and undulating terrains. To make it worst, Bek is watching me and hoping that i don't damage his vehicle and my friends also hoping that it's not the end of their journey..I got the experience of driving across icy streams, narrow curves with jutting stone walls and chasing a fast driven old Russian van in front. What a start!

 

We were heading towards the snow clouds..

 

The ladies first encounter with Yak. As for me, I am used to it as I have visited Nepal many times

 

Our jeep and the Russian van crossing Khovd river

Next story - Eagle hunter & first encounter with snow